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Turnout Blanket

March 25th, 2010 by admin

Choosing a Turnout Blanket

Turnout blankets make me crazy.  I am the blanket psycho at my barn.  As soon as the weather starts getting colder I start to sweat.

  • When do I put the turnout blanket on?
  • What weight blanket do I use?  Should I change to a heavier one?
  • Should I use one at all?

I admit I still don’t have it down pat, but I can try to help you by giving you some information about blankets so you won’t sweat away your winters like I do. First of all, if your horse is going outside you want a turnout blanket not a stable blanket. A stable blanket is not waterproof and is for your horse if he is inside and needs some warmth inside the barn. A turnout blanket is waterproof and will keep you horse warm and dry all winter long.

A key word to learn when looking for a turnout blanket is denierDenier is a measurement used to identify the fiber thickness of the individual threads making the material used to make the blanket.   Denier is also used to measure the fiber durability of the material.  The higher the denier the more durable the fiber.

With this said, on to looking for a turnout blanket.  To begin with you want a good one that will last more than one winter and definitely more than a few weeks.   By this I mean you are putting this blanket on a 1000 pound animal that  has the tendency to act like a big overgrown three year old child.  Even if your horse is the most reserved animal in the world, someone in that pasture is an idiot.

I can (and have) put a brand new blanket on my horse in January and by March it is still clean and looks brand new.  He doesn’t like to roll in the mud and even dodges puddles if possible. His buddy, on the other hand is a fun loving mess.  If there is a mud puddle he’s in it.  He is the type of horse that just wants to play and if he is ignored he will poke,  bump and nip at anyone close to him.  This is where the denier comes in.  A blanket of a high denier count for the outside cover of the blanket (usually nylon) should not tear when pulled by a set of horse  teeth.

As far as durability goes here are some things to look for:

  • If your horse is going to be out with horses that might bite or pull at blankets or if your horse is hard on his turnout blanket look for a durability rating of at least 1600D or more.
  • Durability of around 1200D should hold up to most turnouts with other horses.
  • If the durability is around 600D your horse should be easy on his blanket as well as the others he is out with and the turnout should be occasional or monitored.

With regards to the warmth of the turnout blanket there are various weights. These weights are on stated in the catalog or online when looking  for a blanket:

  • An extra heavy blanket  would be best suited for a horse that has a short coat or is clipped during the winter if the temperature is subzero  to -15 F.
  • If your horse has a medium or full coat go for the heavy weight blanket if the temperature goes down to subzero or -15 F.
  • The medium weight blanket is good for  temperatures of 15 F  to 30 F (again if your horse has a medium or full coat).
  • Above 30 F. there are lined or unlined sheets  that they can wear.

The lining  in many of the blankets is nylon and/or polyester. Some companies might measure it in denier (example – lining – 210D nylon) but most that I have seen measure it in grams, stating  200 grams polyester fill and nylon lining, or 300grams of fill.  Checking the fill and how thick it is doesn’t seem to be much of a concern  to me because when you buy a blanket you are choosing a heavyweight ,  medium weight , or light weight blanket already so you pretty much know the warmth of the blanket as stated by the manufacturer.

Turnout blankets come in different styles.  Some go over the head so there is no opening by the chest which helps with drafts.  Others have claps in front and usually some Velcro on the flap under the claps, again to prevent drafts  as well as tail flaps in the back, also to prevent drafts.   Which one you use is your preference.  Some blankets have gussets in the front by both front legs for a more comfortable movement.  There are higher necks on some to help protect from rain or snow dripping down inside on your horses body.

Some turnout blankets have a belly band that goes under the horse and attaches on the opposite side of the blanket instead of  surcingle straps  for more warmth.   One brand wraps the two front pieces around the horse’s neck and clasps high up on the neck.  It “hugs” the horse in the front and there  are no ‘shoulders’ to worry about in the front .  The  choice is yours.  You have to find the one you think best fits your horse.   They  should  all have leg straps  that wrap around the back legs of the horse.  Some people criss-cross these straps which means they go  from the back left of the blanket to the opposite side in front of the right leg of the horse and the same with the other side.  Other people attach the leg strap from the back to the front of the same leg.

I criss-cross the straps because I believe it helps to hold the blanket in place a little better.  Just make sure  the straps are not hanging too low to have a leg get caught in them as well as not too tight to rub the inside of the legs.

When you buy a turnout blanket you measure your horse from the middle of his chest to the middle of his tail.  The number of inches corresponds to a blanket size.

Blanket sizes are in 2” increments: 66 (pony), 68, 70, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 84, 86, 88 and 90(draft horse)

Measuring gives you the size of the blanket , but you must consider other things.  Does your horse have small shoulders, how tall is he,  is he high in the withers, etc.   When you chose a blanket you have to try it on your horse and see what it looks like on him. Some blankets may be the correct size but the neck is too big or the shoulders are rubbing and the length is way too long.   Read all the information about the blanket. Some say they are for certain breeds or a larger size horse, etc.  Bring the new blanket to the barn with an old bed sheet.  Lay the sheet over your horse and try on the blanket. If it fits, great, and if it looks like a kid wearing his grandfather’s winter coat,  the bed sheet has kept the blanket clean so you can return it and try again.

You can also buy a separate liner to go under the turnout blanket. If you are looking for extra warmth there are polar fleece liners that wick the moisture away from the body or just fleece liners.  These come with clasps in front or closed over the head style.   The sizes come in small, medium, large and extra large.  They correspond to blanket sizes  -  small 70 -72, medium 74 – 76, large 78 -80, extra large 82 -84.  Other liners you can buy are the stretchies.  These help protect your horse from a blanket that might rub off some hair or just to help keep him clean.  You can purchase a stretchy to just cover the shoulder area or a full body one to cover  his whole body. These also come in sizes small, medium, large and extra large.

What you have to remember is your horse should be as  comfortable  as possible in this blanket.  He will be wearing it all day and night during the winter because most barns don’t take blankets off at night and put them on again in the morning before turnout .

These are all things to think about when looking for a turnout blanket.  It’s not as overwhelming as it seems.   There are many great places to shop for blankets on line or in catalogs as well as stores.  Most of the information is right there with the blanket.  Remember your  horse already comes with a coat and doesn’t need the warmest of coats out there.  They rather be cooler than too hot.  You don’t have to buy the most expensive and shouldn’t buy the cheapest.  Find a good quality brand name blanket and everything should be fine.

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Horse Boarding

March 21st, 2010 by admin

Horse Boarding

Thinking about buying a horse? Before you do that, think about where you will be boarding this horse. As my horse gets older and has some leg problems I realize there are more things to consider when looking for a stable. Of course price matters but before you go for the cheaper board find out if there are “extras” that you will be paying for monthly. Sometimes the more expensive stable is really the more efficient one in the end. These are some suggestions for you to consider when looking for a place for your horse.

First of all, what are you planning on doing with your horse?

Are you going to show your horse or just ride on trails? How many days a week do you plan on seeing your horse?

These are things to consider so you have an idea of what type of barn you are looking for. In a show barn the main purpose is to show your horse at horse shows. The horses and owners are trained in a certain discipline and they work towards a goal. During the winter months they train and once the summer comes they travel to horse shows on the weekends. There usually isn’t much trail riding or ‘free’ time with your horse because of the training schedules. Some show barns don’t even let the horses go out in pastures during the day. Then there are barns that are mostly just pleasure barns. Some of these barns might have trainers and you can take a lesson if you want but mostly the riders just ride in the arenas or go out on trails. These places are usually close to forest preserves or out in the country where you can just ride out in the “back 40”. Whatever you want to do is between you and your horse but here are some things I believe are worth checking out in whatever kind of stable you want.

DISTANCE: How long does it take you to get to the barn. This might not be a big concern if you only go there on the weekends, but it is something to consider. If it takes you 45 minutes to an hour to get to the stable, you have to add two hours to your day with your horse. Once you get to the stable you know you will be spending hours there just doing whatever you do with your horse. Add an extra two hours to the day just getting there and coming home. This is a BIG thing if you want to visit your horse three or four times a week. Even if you take the expressway and it’s a ‘clear shot’ from home to the barn, the drive is tough. It is also expensive paying for gas and wear and tear on your car.

THE STABLE:

  • Who owns the stable?
  • Does the owner live on the grounds, if not is there someone there during the night?
  • Are the horses checked at night before ‘bedtime’?
  • What size stall will your horse have? Does the stall ‘fit’ your horse? Stalls are usually 10X10 or 12X12 sometimes the stable has oversized stalls for larger horses or if you just want a bigger stall for your horse. Does the stall have a window or if not is the aisle bright?
  • In the barn is there a place for you tack?
  • Is it secure- locked up at night or do you need a lock?
  • Is there a wash stall inside the barn or is it just outside?
  • What kind of grain do they give your horse. Are there choices? What kind of hay do they feed? How often is your horse fed?
  • Water buckets: are they cleaned a few times a week? Are they given fresh water daily? One water bucket or two? Will they give you a second bucket if your horse drinks a lot in the summer?
  • How often do they clean the stalls? Do they use shavings or straw? (I don’t know if that matters but it might to some . I guess it would matter if your horse is allergic to dust or is old and has a breathing problem)
  • Is the barn heated? Is there an indoor arena to ride in during the winter? Is it heated? If you live in a cold area ridng in an unheated arena is brutal! The stable where the horses are doesn’t have to be heated because your horse will have a blanket on and with all the horses in the barn it usually isn’t too bad. BUT riding in an unheated arena is no fun as well as not good for your horse to be breathing in cold air while trotting around the arena. Is there an outdoor arena to ride in?

WORMING: Does the barn have a worming schedule? Do they worm your horse or do you have to do it? Usually the barn will put your horse on it’s worming schedule. This way they are sure that every horse is wormed. They will charge you for the worming medicine.

TURN OUT: Now for horsey playtime. Check out the pasture or paddock where you horse will be during the day. Ask if they are turned out when it is raining or snowing.

  • If they are out and a storm comes do they bring them in? If he will be in a large paddock with another horse, there probably won’t be any grass in there.
  • How much hay will he be given while out there? Who will he be with? How was this horse chosen to be his buddy? Do they get along? How long are they outside? All day? Half a day? Do they go out every day? Do they share this paddock with other horses during the day?
  • In the summer is there another paddock with grass for them to eat? One place I was at had small grass paddocks where the horse went during the summer months . Large pasture? Are the geldings and mares separated? Is the pasture split in sections and horses placed in groups depending on their age, aggressiveness, etc.? How do they choose which group your horse will be in? Do they put him in a paddock with a horse from the group so they can get to know each other before putting him out with the group?

Remember horses have a pecking order and your horse, being the new guy (or new girl – mare owners please excuse me for saying “him” all the time) he will be picked on. Expect to see new bruises until they all figure out where each one of them stands in the group. Watch carefully, though, this should only last a week or two and then they should all settle in. If you still see major bite marks maybe talk to the owner and see if they can change your horse to a different group. If you have the time you can always watch how the horses interact with each other, but remember this will take up a lot of your time. After a week or so you can just watch and see if your horse is allowed by the hay bale if there is one in with the horses. Also if you wait long enough your horse should go to the water trough for a drink. Watch and see if they let him drink or which horse pushes him away. All these things usually work out, though, so you don’t have to worry, but sometimes it’s fun to watch the way horses deal with each other

BOARDING: Now that I have given you things to worry about with your horse’s stall, feeding and pasture buddies here’s another thing to look at. Of course one of the first things you ask at a stable is “How much is the board?” Once they tell the price, find out what’s included in that price and what is extra.

  • Will they give your horse supplements if you supply them?
  • If the supplements are in a baggie or small container will they add it to the food free of charge once or twice a day? Will they take blankets off and put them on for free or is there an extra charge?
  • The same thing for bell boots if your horse must have them on when he goes out to play. In the summer will they put on and take off fly masks? Is there an extra charge for giving medicine? If the vet or farrier is coming and you can’t be there do they charge for getting your horse from outside and staying with him if necessary?
  • If your horse is injured and needs to stay in his stall all day (sometimes for months if tendons or ligaments are involved) will they charge you extra because he is in for a long period of time? If your horse has to be walked daily and you can’t be there, how much do they charge for that? What are the hours that the stable is open and closed? If your horse is sick will they allow you to come after hours or on closed days? Does the barn have their own vet/farrier? Can you keep your vet/farrier ?
  • Can you bring in your own trainer? If you have a horse trailer can you park it on the grounds and what is the fee? Well, there you have it, a few hundred more things to think about when owning a horse.

This might sound like a lot but the biggest thing is that you find a place where you feel you can talk to the owners and you trust them. Also, if you watch your horse you will be able to tell if he is a happy horse.

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Equestrian Training

March 11th, 2010 by admin

When looking for a trainer, the first question is…a trainer for you, as in horseback riding lessons, or a trainer for your horse which really means a trainer for you AND your horse.

If you are looking for lessons to ride a horse you must first decide how you want to ride.  Do you want to ride Western or English.  If it’s English, are you thinking hunt seat, dressage or jumping.  Then you start looking for lessons.  One way to find out about lesson is to go to a tack store.  They should have books behind the counter with names of trainers, stables etc.  If there are no books there  could be a bulletin board with names of trainers, barns, etc.  You can call the trainers and ask to watch a lesson and ask about taking a lesson from them.   When you go for a lesson ask questions.  Find out how long the person has been giving lessons, ask the price of lessons, ask for references and if there are other riders there ask why they are with this trainer.  Perhaps some of them have had  lessons from other trainers and they changed to this one for certain reasons that may be one of your concerns.  Remember, if you don’t enjoy your lessons don’t give up on riding, find another  trainer .  Since you have no horse to move around if you don’t like the trainer, it’s easy just find another barn until you ‘click’ with the trainer.

Picking a trainer for your horse and yourself is a bit harder.  If you don’t like the trainer  at the barn you are boarding at  means  finding another trainer and moving your horse to the barn the trainer is at (unless you have a horse trailer and can transport your horse weekly to the barn for a lesson and then go back to the barn you’re boarding at).  Of course the ideal situation is finding a wonderful trainer that loves your horse and you feel comfortable with.  They are out there but sometimes they are hard to find, especially if you are a new owner and don’t know a lot about training.  By this I mean – I can (and have) watched my trainer for hours and hardly ever see him move a hand, leg, or even twitch an eyeball and the horse he is riding will start doing amazing things.  I have heard the good old statement “watch this” in a demonstration and the trainer looks perfectly still, something must have happened and then the horse does something.  Then I would get the next question, “did you see what I did?” Absolutely NOT!!  I saw nothing,  not a flicker of movement on the part of the rider and I’m clueless about what I’m supposed to do.  I have also watched a horse being trained in higher level dressage.  I’ve watched the owner do the maneuver  and watched the horse and then stood with the owner while the trainer does the same thing and  I see nothing different in the horse but the owner see the difference.  What I am saying is, as a novice there are so many things that you will never see being done which could be a problem if the trainer is being too rough with your horse.

So, when looking for a trainer for your horse, go to horse shows and watch trainers and the customers.  Ask many, many questions at the show.  Ask why some people have a certain trainer and not another.  Watch how the trainer acts with his ‘people’ and their horse.

When you talk to a trainer about training your horse ask how many years he/she has been training.    What level trainer are they .   What breed of horse do they usually train?  Have they just worked with one breed or do they work with all breeds.   Find out about their people skills.  There are many trainers that can train a horse but have no people skills and can’t get across the lesson to a person like they can to the horse.   Also the opposite can happen, a good people person can’t train a horse.   Sometimes you will find a team, one trains the horse and the other trains you.  Just be sure you are comfortable with whatever arrangement you have.  If your horse is trained separately and then you have lessons on your horse make sure that you  have a good enough lesson that you will know how to ride your horse when your trainer is not around.  There is nothing worse than only being able to ride your horse in a controlled lesson environment.  If you are afraid to ride in the arena when your trainer isn’t there or afraid to go with friends on a trail ride because you don’t know how to handle your horse in any situation you are inviting trouble.  You can’t be totally dependent on your trainer when you ride.  YOU have to be in charge of YOUR  horse when YOU  are  riding.  Your horse will always know who is boss while being ridden.  He is always testing you and as soon as you get into the saddle and pick up those reins, trust me, he’s got your number and will start testing you.  He is looking for guidance from you.  He needs a leader and wants to feel secure with the one riding him.  Once you give him the power of control and he stops listening to you, you are in trouble and are on your way to getting hurt.

So, finding a trainer that you feel comfortable with and trust is very important.  This trainer should want to teach you how to ride your own horse and help you to be able to be the boss and be able to feel things your horse is doing through the reins or with your legs  and pretty much just know what your horse is going to do before he does it.  There are some great trainers out there and don’t get frustrated if you have to change a few times before you find the right one  for you and your horse because the rewards are great once all three of you ‘click’.

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